The Tamesis
Claims that topical ingredients can deliver Botox-like results are considered too good to be true. Few things truly deliver on the promise of reducing the appearance of deep wrinkles like popular needle-free injectables. But lately, the skincare world has been buzzing about a peptide that might be the closest we’re getting to that statement. Say hello to Aguirelin.
It’s not all hype. Peptide fans rave about it and all the experts support it. If you’re looking for a non-cosmetic solution for crow’s feet and laugh lines, consider this your introduction to peptides that many believe could change your entire skin care routine.
How hexapeptides work
David Kim, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of SoHo Dermatology, says hexapeptide (also called acetyl hexapeptide-8 in the ingredients list) is a peptide that, when applied topically to the skin, may have the same muscle-relaxing effects as Botox. “Hexapeptide is a synthetic peptide that works by inhibiting neurotransmitter signals that cause facial muscles to contract,” adds Antony Nakhla, MD, double-certified dermatologist and founder of Eighth Day. “The logic is similar to Botox, except it’s much less potent and totally a hot topic.”
But this isn’t an ingredient you want to use on its own. Dr. Nakhla explains that while hexapeptide can work wonders for more vibrant lines, it works best as part of a broader peptide and growth factor system rather than as a standalone ingredient. “A well-formulated product paired with complementary active ingredients will always perform better than a product marketed as a hexapeptide,” he says.
benefit
The biggest benefit is its ability to smooth dynamic lines. Dr. King said hexapeptides are known to soften deep wrinkles between the brows, forehead and expression lines. Dr. Nakhla adds that it’s best suited for those who want to topical address expression lines or supplement other anti-aging actives in their skin care. It’s also generally well tolerated, and can be considered one of the more accessible anti-aging ingredients compared to its more aggressive counterparts.
Hexapeptides vs. Copper (and Other) Peptides
The biggest difference, Dr. Nakhla says, is that hexapeptide is a signal-blocking peptide rather than a signal-stimulating peptide. For example, copper peptides support wound healing and collagen synthesis, and growth factor peptides signal repair and renewal to the skin, he said. With Hexapeptide, he says, it’s more targeted, focusing on temporarily reducing muscle activity responsible for creating dynamic lines.
shortcoming
As mentioned before, hexapeptide is generally safe for most people. But as with any skin care ingredient, there are some things to consider. The biggest drawback, says Dr. Nachla, is adjusting your expectations based on what the ingredient can and can’t do. “Hexapeptide is not Botox,” he said. “Effect [of Argireline] are subtle, temporary, and dependent on continued use. Those expecting dramatic results will be disappointed. “
How to use
Hexapeptides are easy to incorporate into any skin care regimen. Dr. Nakhla says it’s compatible with most active ingredients, including retinoids and other peptides. If you’re looking for a comprehensive approach to your anti-aging needs, he recommends using it with growth factors for maximum skin smoothing and firming results. You also need to be careful when combining so many peptides (especially copper peptides) with ingredients like vitamin C, which can cause oxidation and reduce their effectiveness.
He says it works best as a serum, absorbing directly into the skin without competing with thicker layers. Dr. King recommends using it once daily as part of a nightly routine.
