The Tamesis
Paris has long positioned itself as the arbiter of taste—in every sense of the word. But in a city where Italian cuisine is integrated into everyday life and Japanese restaurants regularly receive Michelin stars, African cuisine has followed a different trajectory: it has long been associated with neighborhood restaurants and street food formats, rarely being folded into the realm of bistros or fine dining restaurants. In recent years, however, a new breed of chefs has emerged to dominate Paris’ restaurants, infusing African flavors into the classic French culinary vocabulary.
A new generation of African-American chefs is expanding the definition of French cuisine. The shift has been gradual, driven by persistence and the demographic reality that France is home to one of the largest African diasporas in Europe. A generational change is also underway. Young Parisian diners are more multicultural, globally literate and curious, with their tastes influenced by travel, streaming culture and diaspora music. Parisian appetite for layered identities in food will only continue to grow.
Below, we highlight the chefs who have shaped this ever-evolving Afro-Parisian table.
Etienne Biloya, Touki Bouki
Photo: Chris Sanders
Paris’ Belleville neighborhood has long been influenced by immigration, but in Touki Bouki, Étienne Biloa gives that spirit a contemporary voice. His path to food has been anything but linear, taking him through music, publishing and creative production before turning entirely to food. For years, he worked behind the scenes as an agent to amplify the voices of French chefs of African descent, including stars Mory Sacko and Dieuveil Malonga. Eventually, he stepped forward himself.
Photo: Chris Sanders
