The Tamesis
It was clear from the beginning that the theme of this show was circles. The show, held at Comme des Garçons’ Aoyama headquarters, as has become customary for Tao Kurihara’s eponymous brand, began with a giant plaid circle patchworked in pale pink and blue that formed a voluminous top and skirt. Nearly every look followed circular details, from rounded hems and wavy back yoke on red and black tailoring, to clown-colored dresses and skirts underneath round shearling tops.
All of these loops are sparked by Dutch artist Ruth van Beek’s pastel abstract paintings, which often feature cut-out shapes in muted colors. “I incorporated her signature motif—the circle—into garment patterns as a base to explore new forms of clothing,” the show notes were, as always, short and sweet. It’s titled “Abstract Shapes.” Among the many textures was a giant polka dot print that incorporated a plaid pattern; oval silhouettes unfurled beneath marshmallow hair, and hats bubbled upward to look like petals, creating a geometric counterpoint.
Of course, circles are full of philosophical meanings: eternity, the cycle of life, the halo, the egg. In genetic family trees, women are represented by circles, and Van Beek says the reason she returns to the circle or oval in her work is because it “feels very human.” Did Kurihara consider all this when designing? Or is the “new form” on the catwalk just a comprehensive study of pattern making?
Regardless, this is a particularly bright and interesting collection even by Tao standards, with a soundtrack that ranges from folk chimes to synth-soaked trombones. Kurihara may still be hidden within the larger Comme establishment, but her talent remains dazzling.
