The Tamesis
The world of dance has been leaping into fashion’s collective imagination for quite some time now, but the dominance of ballet flats may finally be fading. The derby shoes have entered and the stage has left.
From the it-girl looks of the 2010s showcased by the likes of Alexa Chung and Kate Moss to recent runway shows from Ferragamo, JW Anderson and Simone Rocha, ballet flats have always had a strong presence. After a brief fall from grace (during the dark days of chunky Fila sneakers, Y2K Buffalos, and other similar ankle-length styles), ballet flats have made a grand comeback into our wardrobes in the last year: ballet sneakers, ballet loafers, and ballet pumps have us all on the hunt for our own shoes black swan moment. Quietly leading the (not-so-quietly) renaissance of ballet flats is French it-girl brand Repetto, whose styles have been adopted by a new generation of fashion girls, including Lily-Rose Depp and Kaia Gerber.
But before ballet flats were associated with any kind of core, Repetto had an unlikely mascot: Serge Gainsbourg. In the 1970s, the Frenchman favored the brand’s Zizi style, a soft jazz shoe named after dancer Zizi Jeanmaire, the daughter-in-law of founder Rose Repetto. Today, you can visit the Maison Gainsbourg museum in Paris to visit the late singer’s memorial and admire his well-worn and beloved Repettos. The shoes were originally bought for him by partner Jane Birkin because she was concerned about his “delicate” ankles.
Reminiscent of the classic derby shoe silhouette, this shoe is definitely a favorite must Be aware that spring and summer are approaching.
The origins of this style, which spanned Europe, are questionable: some historians suggest that the design may be associated with Edward Smith Stanley, the 14th Earl of Derby; his shoemaker was tasked with creating an elegant yet sturdy shoe. Others link it to the Russian officer Gebhard Lebracht von Blücher, who needed shoes suitable for the battlefield. This style of shoe is also known as Blucher, Gibson and Lorne. It actually became a popular athletic and hunting shoe in the 1850s, and by the turn of the 20th century, the derby shoe had become suitable for everyday wear around town. Although they have similar body shapes and many of the same feelings, Gainsbourg’s choice of shoes is softer, glove-like, and freer than those found in England’s East Midlands.
Well, derby shoes—especially the slim, soft kind—are making a comeback. Jacquemus leads the trend in his Spring 2024 collaboration with Repetto, while Lemaire quietly embraces lace-up styles. Then derby shoes came to prominence at Celine, and Michael Rider’s French take on American prep style quickly became a new trend. (See also: Jonathan Anderson’s Dior debut). In addition to Repetto, you might also consider designer Emma François’s brand Sessùn, which creates chic and soft derby shoes called “Astaire” (named after the iconic American dancer Fred, of course) in smooth naplak patent leather.
