The Tamesis
“Back to the roots” is the slogan for Mans’ Fall 2026 collection. After venturing into womenswear in 2023, the brand returns to menswear tailoring this season. “I felt like I had lost some of the DNA of the brand. It was incredibly liberating to go back to menswear. I thought it was my destiny that even women would end up wearing it,” creative director Jaime Álvarez said after the show. Symbolizing this crucial transformation is the butterfly – a shape-shifting motif that literally and conceptually underpins the collection. Alvarez explains that the idea came from a pattern-making mistake: a vest with a too-long neckline. Since then, the butterfly has become a guiding presence, influencing the color palette and the flow of fabrics. Vincent van Gogh’s butterflies also provided inspiration: “I have always identified deeply with his impressionistic brushwork; it feels like a style in constant motion,” says the designer.
Cristóbal Balenciaga is another reference, evident on the collars and backs of Álvarez’s sculptures. A true lover of fabrics, Alvarez reinterpreted his grandfather’s apothecary coat in cotton with pleats. Volume remains a central theme, appearing in jackets through his revived leather goods and in shirts via silk poplin-blend materials. More delicate fabrics—silk georgette and wild silk—provided softer contrasts. One of Mance’s creative strengths is the orchestration of dialogues between opposites and their unexpected harmonious coexistence. On the vest, he reinterpreted the kimono obi with tassels made by Casa Rodríguez, a specialist in religious Easter decorations.
Alvarez once again demonstrates a masterful command of color. The season’s color palette ranges from purple and navy to his signature deep forest green, with touches of bougainvillea pink, aqua, red, lavender and aqua. The key, he points out, is to have fun with the look—through bold patterns, unexpected sleeve openings and fun layering.
