The Tamesis
Johanna Ortiz showed her Alma collection in Madrid, but the location was more than just a backdrop. The Colombian designer stayed true to her tropical roots but also made subtle nods to Spain. “As a child, I was fascinated by trachs de luces. It’s not about bullfighting, it’s about the drama of the moment. I didn’t want to do anything literal but include little nods: reinterpreting that embroidery, emphasizing the shoulders, exploring ruffles—which feel very much like ours—while adapting them to this image,” she explains.
On the catwalk, these elements were translated into gaucho-style trousers, bolero jackets and pom-pom belts that adorned dresses, skirts and coats with ties to the equestrian world. Materials like leather, velvet and shearling help her bring a sense of effortless luxury into a more chilled realm. “I come from a country where seasons don’t exist at all. We have mild temperatures and rain all year round, but the seasons don’t really change. That’s why I like to mix heavier pieces with other pieces that can be worn year-round.”
Instead of the saturated hues that usually define her designs, here the tones are toned down to create a more elevated, evening-ready look. “We thought our client was a global woman, and in cities like Paris or New York, winter colors tend to be quite restrained. So we tried to incorporate these tropical elements into textures rather than color palettes,” explains Ortiz.
Craftsmanship has always been at the heart of the brand’s ethos and was the focus of a collaboration with jeweler Omar Hurtado, who created pre-Columbian pieces that fit perfectly with the brand’s eclectic identity. Meanwhile, the brand Moi & Sass is responsible for handcrafted leather bags. “It’s important for us to choose our partners carefully but also to bring exposure to these craftsmanship and this kind of expertise,” Ortiz said. In a crowded field, that’s exactly what she accomplished.
