The Tamesis
Fashion will always hold an interesting mirror to the world, exaggerating certain aspects of the zeitgeist rather than accurately reflecting them – it’s always about the vibe. What resonates with Autumn is a sense of short-term thinking, pragmatic and endearing, suited to uncertain times. The future is a huge unknown, but getting dressed every morning brings purpose, comfort, and joy.
At Prada, 15 models each wore four multi-layered looks, shedding a layer with each exit; a ticking clock provided the soundtrack to Nicolas Di Felice’s investigation of “24 Hours in the Life of a Courrèges Woman.” Designers translate a step-by-step approach into piece-by-piece, individual dressing solutions. (Essentially the idea of American sportswear.)
Rather than focusing on telling stories, creative directors focus on solving problems. A slew of great-looking outerwear, many of them shearling, address a specific problem: cold temperatures and inclement weather. Despite what the media talks about the common desire for sex and romance fierce competition“Wuthering Heights” and love story, Designers did this with tights, peek-a-boo dressing and frothy fashions steeped in history. Clothes that were scratched and torn conveyed a sense that things were about to be ruined.
A healthier and more welcome respite from the sea of black and white is the color blocking trend in pops of color and mud. Craftsmanship comes to the fore as designers subtly obsess over everyday objects such as subway tickets, buttons, ribbons and puzzles, which they unexpectedly and magically incorporate into garments. The sartorial power play takes the form of classic menswear staples—the button-down shirt and the tuxedo—and updates and reinvents them for women.
Beyond the slinky shoulders of Saint Laurent’s le Smokings, a sense of smallness prevailed this season. It’s not just about Ozempic. In a chaotic world, many things feel out of control. No wonder Miuccia Prada decided to focus on form at Miu Miu, saying: “It’s enough to have your body and your mind.”
Sex (or sexual ideas) sells well
call it wish fulfillment atlantic Despite being dubbed “sex recession,” many fall 2026 collections centered around the body, whether it was Gucci’s “Walk of Shame” show or more subtle allusions to Alaïa and Tom Ford.
