The Tamesis
There has been a lot of discussion around the nuances of masculinity in the last year, which in turn has prompted reflection on the future of men’s fashion. In Florence and Milan, the birthplaces of traditional tailoring, menswear designers experimented with autumn/winter 2026 collections – collections that subverted menswear styles, embraced Eastern design codes and showcased ski-inspired styles (the 2026 Winter Olympics in Cortina, Milan, will open on February 6).
Add a dual look fierce competition With exciting appearances from Hudson Williams and Ralph Lauren, the Autumn/Winter 26 collection makes for an interesting season, despite continued challenges in retail.
Canadian actor Hudson Williams opened Canadian brand DSquared2’s 2026 Fall/Winter menswear show inspired by the Winter Olympics.Photo: Umberto Fratini/Gorunway.com
On the first day of Pitti Uomo, Saks Global, the largest luxury retail group in the United States, filed for bankruptcy. Saks has since secured $500 million in financing as part of a financing package to provide liquidity to maintain operations. But as a new season begins, it’s a sobering reminder that the fashion world and its menswear aren’t out of the woods yet.
Here are the main highlights from Pitti Uomo and Milan Fashion Week Men’s Fall/Winter 2026.
background of change
At Pitti Uomo, the number of international buyers attending FW26 was the same as last year at 5,000, said menswear trade show chief executive Raffaele Napoleone. “This is an important result given the many international tensions and market caution,” he said. “On the other hand, Italian buyers decreased slightly to around 7,500, consistent with the mixed picture among national distribution and retail observers.”
“The economic environment remains difficult and the industry’s entire supply chain has gone through a phase of contraction. But menswear continues to show a solid ability to establish a presence on the international market,” added Carlo Capasa, president of Italy’s National Fashion Council (CNMI). “Conveying a coherent message and recommending the right products can create a more direct relationship with consumers and expand their engagement.”
Speaking to Brunello Cucinelli during Pitti last Wednesday, Porter CEO Toby Bateman said that to address retail challenges, brands need to better speak to today’s consumers. “Right now in the industry, retailers seem to be losing sight of who they’re selling to. They’re looking for short-term gains,” he said. “You can’t just say it’s Prince of Wales check cashmere anymore. Customers want to know where it’s made? What’s its origin?” [composition]? How should I design it? How does it fit into my wardrobe and fit into my life? They need to be able to wear it five ways. ” In Pitti and Milan, designers embody this philosophy through their performance, styling and communication.
Redefining the menswear code
This season, some of Milan’s biggest brands are looking to the socio-political climate and the character men evoke through clothing as inspiration. The clothes at Prada’s show on Sunday were ostensibly traditional — windbreakers, windbreakers, slim suits, simple shirts and T-shirts — but were subverted with unconventional details, like buttons at the back, T-shirt collars, sweet-colored cufflinks or rain hats hanging from the back.
