The Tamesis
Elsewhere, outerwear leans toward typically British toggle and fasteners. At Labrum, Mithridate and Fashion East’s Mayhew, coats are fastened with oversized buttons. Paddington-Style closure – traditional details reimagined in a subtly exaggerated way. It’s fitting, because Paddington Bear himself hit the red carpet at the BAFTA Awards, coat and all.
Knitwear favors decoration over comfort. In Mario Arena’s first show for Joseph, white cashmere was embellished with 3D-printed metal quills that rustled as the models walked. Chet Lo creates striking evening gowns and jackets in his signature spiked knits, while Pauline Dujancourt focuses on craftsmanship, using intricate hand-crocheted floral embellishments on dresses and skirts.
Knitwear by Chet Lo and Joseph.Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com, courtesy of Joseph
From a collaboration between Adidas and Gola to Simone Rocha’s equestrian rosettes, the “sport-smart” trend is finally making its presence felt on this season’s runways, with functional attire getting a high-tech and updated twist.
government support
In addition to the BFC changes and King Charles III’s show of support, the government has also deepened its support for the UK fashion industry, which is worth nearly £30 billion and employs more than 800,000 people, according to the Department for Culture, Media and Sport (DCMS). As part of its plans for the creative industries sector, the UK Government will invest £380 million to support initiatives such as the BFC’s NewGen programme, which has received £1 million in funding from DCMS.
“If we fail to value and invest in this industry, we risk shutting out the next generation of world-leading designers before they have a chance to establish themselves,” said Lisa Nandy, the UK Secretary of State for Culture, Media and Sport. Part of the plan involves decentralizing access to creative industries such as fashion. Mayors across England will also invest £150 million in their local creative economies, including the fashion industry.
Nandy stressed that while the government had not been able to “go ahead” with the reintroduction of VAT-free shopping, it was “hearing the strong and clear feelings across the industry on this issue”. “This is a really difficult global environment – trade pressures, access to finance, the impact on industries that rely on exports and tourism,” she said. “We are actively looking at what more can be done to support the industry and that is ongoing. The industry deserves our honesty and they deserve to know we are working hard.”
